How to Use a Snoot for Underwater Photography

Snoot photography is a dramatic, theatrical method of lighting for underwater photographers that will ignite your artistic potential and refine your photographic skills through patience and persistence.

It is a way of adding depth and interest to your underwater photo by redirecting the viewer’s attention and blacking out distractions that would otherwise clutter the moment.

A snoot is a tube-like mechanism that is placed on your strobe and is used to compress and redirect your lighting as a means to highlight a subject. A snoot itself does not produce light but rather takes the light from your strobe and narrows the beam’s output to create a superficial “spotlight” effect.

You’ll often hear photographers utter the phrase “light is everything,” and while this is almost always true, snooting is the art of minimal light – subtraction and simplification in a chaotic underwater playground.

Have you ever visited the theatre and seen the master of ceremonies center stage with a spotlight aimed directly at him?

This is probably the best way to describe the effect you’re chasing with snoot photography: a narrow beam of light encompasses your subject and blacks everything in the background completely out.

When to use snoot photography?

You have to pick your battles when it comes to snoot photography, as there are definitely moments when you should decide to leave it behind. As you’re essentially trying to gain greater control of illumination, by default, you’re also diminishing the margin for error.

So if you’re dealing with surge or current, your aim will be in constant jeopardy. Snoot aim is hard enough as it is and will have you blowing curse bubbles with the added stress of complex conditions.

Another justification for dropping the snoot may be for reasons of creativity. There are situations where you’ll want to capture everything in the frame: colorful coral, animal behavior, or simply a scene that cannot afford to be minimized.

However, as a photographer diving in Sydney, I can honestly say that 9 times out of 10, I’m shooting exclusively with a snoot. I find they are invaluable in situations with poor visibility, as the narrow beam of light can greatly reduce the amount of backscatter.

Above all, they’re essential to the injection of drama in an otherwise mundane moment.

How to set up your snoot before a dive

If you don’t have a focus light, you may want to hone in on the type of critter you’re looking to capture and position the strobe in accordance with focal distance.

Snoots tend to be bulky, awkward, and flimsy to transport down to most shore dives, so you’ll likely want to position it for transport and set it up as needed while underwater.

As my snoot is attached to my strobe, I like to take the physical snoot apparatus off the strobe pre-dive and attach it to my BCD with a double-ender.

Two backscatter snoots have been lost to the seas in the past, and for their costly market value, I’ve learned a little inconvenience is worth the cost.

Once you’re ready and in the water, I’d advise isolating a static object and readying your snoot for a potential opportunity. The last thing you want is to stumble across something phenomenal and miss the moment because you weren’t “aim-ready.”

Tips and techniques for snoot photography

To help you achieve your goals with snoot photography, here are some top tips.

Snoot positioning

The biggest challenge of using a snoot is aiming this narrow beam of light at an angle that will best accentuate your subject’s features.

As I am constantly making minor adjustments to my light, I’ve chosen to mount my snoot setup to a flex arm for easy manoeuvrability. While most people would frown upon this setup (for one reason or another), I’ve found that it is the best bespoke setup for me as a photographer.

Without having to loosen or tighten clamps, I can make the smallest adjustments while maintaining focus on my frame. That being said, using skeleton arms and clamps is a much sturdier setup if you’re battling surge or challenging conditions.

The traditional discipline for snoot positioning would likely be to aim the snoot directly above the subject, giving it that conventional “spotlight” effect that underwater photographers chase.

Personally, I find this technique outdated and tiresome, but it’s a good starting point for understanding the creative fundamentals. My favored positioning for the snoot is with the beam of light sitting at approximately 45 degrees directly in front of the subject.

With my particular setup, this means the snoot rests directly above my Isotta tray. This will light the subject in a dramatic, commanding fashion, without producing the “spotlight” effect.

Executing perfect exposure may prove tricky when it comes to snooting and could just be a matter of recalibrating your snoot’s distance to the subject.

As mentioned previously, it would be wise to find a static object at the beginning of your dive and understand how snoot positioning in relation to an object will affect light output.

Abstract disciplines

I’m an avid fan of breaking conventions and experimenting with abstract techniques, and a snoot is a wonderful (and sometimes vital) tool in executing them.

For example, if you’re wanting to shoot with slow shutter motion blur, you’ll need a snoot in order to selectively freeze portions of the frame.

Other disciplines like backlighting are certainly easier to execute with the aid of a snoot, as you’re able to accurately pinpoint the light output on a potentially tiny critter.

You can also let your creative juices flow with quirky abstract practices, like injecting colored video light in the background of your snooted subject in either a blur motion or static capacity.

I’ve also even seen photographers project their snooted circle onto a wall next to a subject to mimic a “moon” in space. In addition, sometimes using a snoot to accentuate backscatter can be an interesting creative choice that goes against the grain of conventional underwater photography.

Camera settings

Depending on the type of shot you’re chasing, the settings for snooting can vary quite a bit.

Conventional snoot shots: These can be achieved with something along the lines of 1/200, f/18, ISO 100. These settings will result in a crisp, dramatically lit photo with a blackened background.

Wide aperture snooting: Shallow depth of field can introduce an almost three-dimensional impression and open your shot up to color and class while maintaining focus on your subject. A successful delivery of this technique can be noted on my photo titled “smorg,” with settings of 1/200, f/3.5, ISO 200.

Backlighting: There are two standardized methods for backlighting. If you’re seeking the “X-ray” effect, you’ll just need one strobe behind your subject, and settings like 1/200, f/10, ISO 400.

But if you’re wanting a more balanced backlit shot, you’ll need a source of light positioned behind your subject (either on a tripod or handheld by an assistant) on relatively high power, with a snoot aimed at your subject from the front at a much lower power.

Settings will average out at 1/200, f/13, ISO 320.

Slow shutter: Standard slow shutter may be used to bring a bit of movement and color back into your shot while using the snoot to accentuate the star of the show. This can be achieved with settings of 0.20s, f/22, ISO 200.

Slow shutter blur motion: Using a snoot to freeze the desired portion of the frame (usually the eye or head of the subject), you’ll shoot the subject and swipe your camera in the desired direction with great force. I’ll generally use settings in the field of 1/4, f/20, ISO 100 – these settings may vary depending on how bright the conditions are on the day and how much motion I want in the shot.

What to look for when choosing a snoot?

Before you dive into the world of snoot photogrpahy, here are some top tips to help you choose the right snoot.

Focus light

Although snooting is a relatively new technique in mainstream underwater shooting, the pioneers of underwater photography have been mastering this practice for years. These old-school gurus had to make do without the aid of a focus light (a vital lifeline in contemporary underwater snooting).

This meant that you’d be forced to either choose your subject and distance pre-dive and configure the aim on land or estimate your aim and readjust until you execute the landing. How frustrating would this be!

Thankfully, with underwater photography climbing the mainstream ladder, snoot technology has accommodated and integrated the focus light as a crucial aspect of the discipline.

With this in mind, you’ll have to select a snoot that is compatible with your strobe. I’ve found some snoots (although technically compatible with certain strobes) don’t accurately direct the focus light for aim assistance.

This can mean that the focus light is slightly off or simply does not have a sufficient focus light output. For example, the Inon Z330 has a focus light on the side of the strobe, so you’ll need a snoot that accommodates this placement.

Choosing a snoot

There is a wide range of snoots to choose from, in many different price brackets. Most people jump on the “MacGyver” bandwagon to save a few bucks but end up throwing in the towel due to frustrating outcomes and missed opportunities.

Personally, I’d advise doing your research and choosing the right snoot up front (even if it means digging deep into your bubble-blowing piggy bank) as you’ll end up saving in the long run. I had to buy three different snoots before I settled on the right one.

There are many different considerations to take into account when buying a snoot. As mentioned earlier, focus light compatibility is a huge factor. But the second element to consider (that most people overlook) is size and weight.

Before you land on a decision, ask yourself the following questions:

Does the size and weight of this snoot fit with the composition of my setup (for example, if you’re shooting with a compact setup, you may want to choose a snoot that is smaller and lighter than your rig)? And if so, am I willing to accommodate this size and weight on every dive?

Optical glass quality is another driving factor in snoot selection and will be determined by the types of shots you’re looking to capture.

For example, the Retra LSD is considered one of the best optical snoots on the market and boasts stellar quality glass for both macro and wide-angle snoot photography.

However, if you’re only chasing macro shots with the snoot, I’d be inclined to lean more toward the backscatter optical snoot.

I’ve selected this option myself and couldn’t be happier. Its lean and light design is the perfect underwater apparatus, and its optical capabilities are more than sufficient for beautiful macro photography.

This particular snoot can either be purchased with its own backscatter mini flash, or, if you’re able to find a vendor that can 3D print a strobe adapter, you’ll be able to use it with most Inon strobes.

I urge all Sydney divers to visit Aquatic Imaging Australia in Bondi if you’re wanting to snap up this snoot and 3D-printed adapter.

Pros and Cons of Snoots

One last thing to consider is the pros and cons of different snoots.

Home Made

Pros: Price, easily replaced, bespoke design.

Cons: No optics, unrefined design, difficult to master, no aperture adapter.

Retro LSD

Pros: Compatible with most strobes, wide range of aperture slides, stellar optics appropriate for wide angle and macro.

Cons: Weight, size, strobe clip may have a tendancy to come off your strobe during transit.

Backscatter Snoot

Pros: Lean and light design, two types of aperture slides, reasonable price point.

Cons: Unless you’re able to find someone to 3D print an adapter, you’ll have to use it with the Backscatter mini flash.

Scubalamp OSD Snoot

Pros: Excellent optics available for both wide and macro, built-in aperture wheel.

Cons: Size, weight, price, focus light output is extremely dim.

In conclusion

If you’re looking to take your underwater photography to the next level, then adding a snoot to your repertoire is paramount.

It’s a tiresome yet rewarding practice, with a steep learning curve that will have you in underwater fits. But I promise you, the art of mastering the snoot is like all aspects of underwater photography … practice makes perfect.

Be sure to do your research, practice on land, and take the time to properly understand the elements surrounding exposure, positioning, and aim. Just remember to persevere, push your creative limits, and have fun exploring the realm of snoot photography.