How to Improve Your Milky Way Photography

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Milky Way photography is, I believe, the most popular branch of astrophotography. But mastering this form of photography requires more than just pointing your camera at the night sky; it involves preparation, the right gear, knowledge of camera settings, and a bit of patience.

Here’s how to take your Milky Way photography to the next level.

Read more: How to Photograph the Milky Way

1. Planning your shoot – location and timing

Finding the perfect spot to capture the Milky Way is crucial. Light pollution from urban areas can drown out stars, so look for places far from city lights.

Dark Sky Parks and rural areas are ideal. Some National Parks might work too if they are more remote.

Here are some key planning steps.

Check light pollution maps

Websites like LightPollutionMap.info can help you locate the darkest spots near you. If you’re not an amateur astronomer, find a local astronomy club and ask about the darkest locations in your area.

Use astronomy apps

Apps like Stellarium or SkySafari allow you to track when the Milky Way core is visible in your area and its positioning in the sky. These apps will also tell you the phase of the Moon.

The best time to see the Milky Way is when the Moon is new; however, that’s not necessarily the best time to photograph the Milky Way if you want to include some landscape as well.

I suggest shooting +/- 4 days on either side of the New Moon. A small phase of the Moon will light the landscape but will not wash out the Milky Way.

Consider the season

The Milky Way core (the most photogenic part) is typically visible from March to October in the Northern Hemisphere and November to February in the Southern Hemisphere. Note that the core of the Milky Way will be more difficult to spot the further you are from the Equator.

At the same time, don’t neglect other parts of the Milky Way. And remember, absolutely all stars you photograph in the night sky in a wide-angle shot are stars from our own galaxy. So, anywhere you point your camera, you will photograph the Milky Way. But let’s end this digression.

Our galaxy looks beautiful in other parts of the sky, too. The area around the constellations of Cygnus (The Swan) and Aquila (The Eagle) is very rich in emission and dark nebulae.

In the Southern Hemisphere, aim for the constellation of Carina, and you will end up with a beautiful image.

2. Essential gear for Milky Way photography

While having a good camera helps, you don’t necessarily need the latest or most expensive model.

Here’s what you need.

Camera

A full-frame DSLR or mirrorless camera with good low-light performance is ideal. However, many crop-sensor cameras (especially newer mirrorless ones) can also capture impressive Milky Way shots.

If you want to take your Milky Way photography one step further, choose an astro-modified camera. This will better show red nebulae along the Milky Way.

Lens

A wide-angle lens (14-24mm on full-frame, 10-18mm on crop-sensor) with a large maximum aperture (f/2.8 or wider) allows more light into the camera and captures more of the sky. Even a fisheye lens will do a great job if you want to show the Milky Way from horizon to horizon.

However, the wider you go, the fewer details you will be able to see in the dark clouds (and not only) of the Milky Way.

My favourite focal length for shooting the Milky Way is 24mm. It offers a wide enough view of the sky and beautiful details in the intricate dust and gas clouds that can be seen in our home galaxy.

Sturdy tripod

Stability is key for long exposures, so invest in a solid tripod that can hold your camera still even in windy conditions.

If needed, weigh it down with a sandbag or some rocks.

Remote shutter release or intervalometer

Avoid camera shake by using a remote trigger or your camera’s self-timer. Some cameras have built-in intervalometers, which are useful for capturing multiple shots without touching the camera.

This will come in very handy if you plan on stacking multiple images to reduce noise and reveal more details in the Milky Way.

Dew heater

Many times, dew will start to form on your lens. Always use a lens hood and invest in a dew heater.

If you don’t have a dew heater, you can stick some chemical hand warmers (available in outdoor shops) around the lens hood; just be careful not to restrict the field of view of your lens.

3. Ideal camera settings for Milky Way photography

Achieving the right balance of exposure, focus, and sharpness is essential for Milky Way shots. Start with these settings and adjust based on your environment.

ISO

Start around ISO 1,600 to ISO 3,200. Higher ISO captures more light but can introduce noise, so find the right balance for your camera. If you have a modern, top-of-the-line mirrorless camera, you will be safe from ugly noise even at ISO 6,400.

Aperture

Close down your lens by one stop (e.g., if your widest aperture is f/2.8, close it to f/4).

You will lose a little light (you can compensate by increasing ISO), but by using a one-stop smaller aperture, you will mitigate some of the optical defects, and stars will look better in your final image, especially in the corners of the frame.

Shutter speed

This depends on your lens focal length. Use the 300 Rule as a guide: divide 300 by your focal length to get an approximate shutter speed. For example, with a 20mm lens, 300 ÷ 20 = 15 seconds.

Many people recommend the 500 rule, but I suggest using the 300 or even the 250 rule if you have a camera with a high number of megapixels and want to print your images. If your only intent is to publish them online, the 500 rule will work.

Also, take into account the part of the sky you are shooting towards.

The closer you are to the celestial equator, the quicker you’ll notice the stars trailing in your image, and the 500 rule will not be very useful (use the 250 or even 200 rule if you are shooting close to the celestial equator).

Focus

Autofocus won’t work well in low light, so switch to manual focus and use live view to zoom in on a bright star. Adjust the focus ring until the star appears sharp.

Tape down your focus and zoom (if using a zoom lens) rings so you do not move them by accident while shooting. Check focus periodically, as ambient temperature might change the focus point.

4. Mastering composition for Milky Way photography

Composition is crucial in Milky Way photography, as it is in any kind of landscape astrophotography. Think of the Milky Way as your main subject but add interest with other elements:

Foreground interest

Mountains, trees, rocks, or even reflections on water can add depth and context to your image. You can also shoot the Milky Way above people observing the night sky through a telescope.

Please avoid taking photos of people pointing bright flashlights at the sky. On one hand, it’s been done way too many times. On the other, this kind of composition doesn’t send the right message; we, as astrophotographers, don’t like light pollution.

Leading lines

Use natural lines (like pathways, rivers, or elements on the horizon) that draw the viewer’s eye toward the Milky Way.

Rule of thirds

Position the Milky Way core around the intersection points of the rule of thirds grid, which creates a balanced and visually appealing composition.

Don’t forget that the main subject of your photo is the sky, so keep the horizon line in the lower part of the frame.

Top Tip

Experiment with your positioning, especially if you’re including elements like archways or bodies of water in your shots.

A well-chosen foreground can add scale and drama to your photo.

5. Advanced techniques for sharp, detailed image

To elevate your Milky Way photography, try these techniques:

Image Stacking

Capture several images in sequence and stack them in software like Starry Landscape Stacker or Sequator. Stacking helps reduce noise and bring out finer details.

Tracking Mounts

For more dedicated astrophotographers, a star tracker mount moves your camera in sync with the Earth’s rotation, allowing longer exposures without star trails. This technique, however, is more advanced and requires some practice.

Also, if your image includes part of the landscape, you will need to do some blending.

When tracking the apparent movement of the night sky, the ground will be blurry in your photos. Consider capturing some separate shots for the foreground (with tracking off) and blending them in editing software like Adobe Photoshop.

Panoramas

If you want to capture a wider field of view, try shooting a series of overlapping images (overlap them by 50%) and stitching them together. This works well for capturing the entire arch of the Milky Way, especially in open landscapes.

Check your final panorama and see how the images were blended by the software. Sometimes, you might find that some stars appear twice or that others are missing. A

void these kinds of errors, as they will be easy to spot by seasoned astronomers. Additionally, astrophotography has a documentary value, and we want to show nature as it is.

6. Post-processing tips for Milky Way photography

Editing is where your Milky Way images come to life. Post-processing helps enhance colours, contrast, and detail. But don’t overdo it. This is probably the most important thing to remember about post-processing: be gentle.

The first thing you need to take care of is the colour of the sky and the Milky Way. I’ve seen some very weird colours in Milky Way photos throughout the years, especially a lot of purple.

The night sky is not purple, nor is it bright blue. It is a very deep shade of aquamarine, close to black. Airglow can change this colour and make the sky appear greenish or brownish.

You can make a selection of the Milky Way with the brush tool in Lightroom or Adobe Camera Raw and make some local adjustments (like contrast and colour temperature).

But again, be very careful with this and make sure the selection is not obvious and blends well with the sky background.

Play a bit with the Clarity and Dehaze sliders, but keep the numbers low so that your photo does not look artificial.

7. Stay safe and enjoy the experience

When venturing out at night, remember to stay safe. Here are some tips.

Bring a friend

Astrophotography spots can be isolated, so it’s safer (and more fun) with a buddy.

Also, bring a telescope or a pair of binoculars.

Pack essentials

Bring a flashlight, headlamp, warm clothing, snacks, and water. Nighttime temperatures can drop, so dress in layers.

Leave no trace

Respect the environment and keep your shooting locations pristine.

Carry out any trash and avoid disturbing wildlife.

In conclusion

Milky Way photography combines technical skills with an appreciation for the natural world. By planning ahead, refining your settings, and experimenting with compositions, you can capture breathtaking images of our galaxy.

Don’t forget that every shoot is a learning opportunity, so enjoy the process and embrace the thrill of discovery each time you head out into the night.

Clear skies!

How to Improve Your Milky Way Photography