How to Plan an Underwater Photography Trip to Raja Ampat
Raja Ampat has long been celebrated as the ultimate dive destination for underwater photography.
Located off the northwest tip of Bird’s Head Peninsula in West Papua, you’ll stumble upon an almost unbelievable spectacle of jungle-covered islands, rich coral reefs, and more wildlife than one could hope to embrace in an entire lifetime.
Also known as ‘The Last Paradise’, Raja Ampat is an archipelago comprising over 1,500 islands surrounding the four main islands of Waigeo, Batanta, Salawati, and Misool.
With its prime real estate situated in the middle of the Coral Triangle, this diverse and abundant utopia is said to hold over 75% of the world’s species, branding it as the mecca for scuba diving and underwater photography.
This prolific tropical region boasts an impressive repertoire of over 1,000 species of fish, 540 different strains of coral, 700 types of mollusks, crocodiles, dugongs, and schooling mantas. Prepare to have your salt-covered mind absolutely blown out of the water!
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How to plan a trip to Raja Ampat
Like most pristine salty wonderlands, you’ll be kidding yourself if you think this vibrant corner of the earth is easy to reach.
For Aussie go-getters such as myself, it’s a hop, skip, two plane trips (with lengthy layovers), a slow and steamy two-hour ferry ride, and a pothole-peppered car journey to reach your starting point in Waisai.
From here, you can either decide to take day trips out to the neighbouring island dive sites, hop on a liveaboard, or take a speedboat out to your island of choice.
Having visited Raja Ampat several times, my preferred itinerary would be to book onto a liveaboard, as it will allow you to cover as much ground as possible in this vast and expansive region.
If you’re able to find one that includes Misool in the program, then you’ve hit the jackpot, as this salty gem is one of only a handful of places where the biodiversity is actually improving rather than declining.
If you have time after your days at sea, I’d advise picking an island or two and shacking up in a homestay to decompress and enjoy the pristine house reefs the area has to offer.
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What to expect
I think the most wonderful thing about Raja Ampat is that it holds something for everyone when it comes to underwater photography.
Personally, the thing that keeps bringing me back is the incredibly majestic reef systems that continue to grow and flourish with unimaginable size and colours – a true natural masterpiece.
This coral cosmos sets the perfect scene for wide-angle photos of schooling fish, manta rays, wobbegong sharks, and turtles. I’d advise using a 16–35mm for these types of shots; however, there are loads of opportunities for some CFWA snaps too.
I also find Raja to be the ideal setting for some picture-perfect split shots, most of which are easily accessible off a variety of island house reefs.
When selecting a homestay, I’d be very meticulous about choosing one with a pristine house reef, as you’ll have 24-hour access to an almost choreographed coral backdrop, maximising your time in the water to capture the perfect split shot.
The region’s breathtaking sunrises and sunsets are also something to consider when attaining these types of shots.
However, the major draw to the region seems to gravitate towards the weird and wonderful macro critters hiding in the cracks and crevices of these breathtaking reef systems.
Although I’d advise taking a mid-range macro lens such as the 60mm, it’s absolutely essential you pack something with a little more punch, like the 90mm or 120mm. Furthermore, I’d also recommend you bring an external diopter for those teeny tiny critters.
You’ll have multiple encounters with pygmy pipehorses, mantis shrimps, leaf scorpionfish, frogfish, various species of cephalopods, ghost pipefish, eels, blennies, and soft coral denizens.
Before you take a splash, be sure to interrogate your dive guide about what you can expect to see, so that you can choose the right setup for the dive.
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Challenges of photography at Raja Ampat
Raja’s rich diversity can only be attributed to the nutrient-rich waters in the region, which can sometimes mean that you’ll be graced with less-than-desirable visibility.
Capturing those wide-angle stunners can therefore be a bit challenging at times, so make sure you have your strobe positioning down to an absolute tee.
These nutrient-rich waters are the product of an incredibly intricate system of strong currents that flow through the Dampier Straits.
And although this is perhaps the main contributing factor to the masses of marine life in the region, it can also be a burden when handling heavy underwater photography equipment.
Be prepared to hit the water on some dives and do nothing but hold on for dear life, taking shelter behind any boulder you can find.
If your dive guide tells you the currents are “strong” before you jump in, I’d probably advise just leaving your camera behind, as you’ll find it ‘flying in the wind’ for the whole 60 minutes, leaving you with only one hand to hold on.
That being said, make sure your camera is securely attached to you at all times, or at the very least, be sure you have a reliable insurance policy!
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Sites of choice
Here are some of my top choices for dive spots around Raja Ampat.
1. Melissa’s Garden
If you’re a coral enthusiast like me, then this is a dive you’ll hold dear in your memories forever. A wide-angle site, you’ll drop down and become completely engulfed in mountains of coral plates that stretch as far as the eye can see.
The elegance and refined beauty of this site’s topography set the stage for the perfect wide-angle shot, where you’ll encounter schooling batfish, barracuda, snappers, lionfish, angelfish, and much more.
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2. Batu Rufus
When I first experienced this hidden gem, my initial thoughts were: “Could such a place exist on Earth?” Batu Rufus is a crystal-clear emerald lagoon enclosed by towering limestone formations near the Fam Islands.
The dive begins on the outer skirts of the lagoon, where you’ll find sloping reefs that drop down to about 25 metres, and perhaps the best opportunity to see mantas and sharks. But for me, the true photographic magic happens in the shallows of this unforgettable site.
The entrance to the lagoon leads you through a large swim-through, lined with towering coral fans and majestic rock structures akin to an underwater red carpet event.
If you can muster the strength to pull focus and actually swim through to the other side, the lagoon opens up into a natural pool of wonders with startling visibility.
Here, you can spend hours in 5 metres of water snapping up the flourishing reef systems that are scattered all along the infinite ocean floor.
Were I to have the opportunity to dive this site again, I might even choose to do it without a tank, as it is the perfect shallow setting to shoot with natural light and an ideal opportunity to take some stunning split shots with the surrounding limestone structures.
3. Cape Kri
Perhaps the most well-known dive site in the region, Cape Kri is definitely one for the books. Having held the world record for the site with the highest number of species spotted on a single dive, you’ll be overwhelmed with choice when it comes to marine life opportunities.
As one of the more popular dive sites, it’s likely you’ll have the chance to dive it more than once, in which case I’d recommend taking your wide-angle lens on one dive and a macro setup on the other.
With sloping reefs that drop down to a whopping 40 metres, stunning coral gardens, and strong intersecting currents, you’ll have some fantastic wide-angle opportunities with schooling barracuda, turtles, mantas, and several pelagic species.
However, this was perhaps one of my favourite macro dives, as the site is saturated with exotic tiny critters, my favourite being the pygmy seahorse.
Due to the large number of Muricella gorgonians at Cape Kri, it’s hard to miss an opportunity to pass one of these gorgeous fans without scouring the branches for these kings of camouflage.
But this pygmy kingdom is also home to a number of other wonderful subjects like octopus, flatworms, nudibranchs, shrimps, and more.
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4. Manta Ridge
Located between Mansuar and Airborei Islands, this wonderful site is a hotspot for schooling mantas. Having dived this site multiple times, I can say with certainty that it is a hit-or-miss kind of experience, as there have been times when there were no mantas in sight.
However, if the ocean gods are in your favour, you’ll have moments where you’re having to duck as mantas fly at you from every corner.
Just be wary of the incredibly strong currents often present at this site, and remember to respect the presence of potentially dangerous down currents.
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5. Citrus Ridge
Another serious fan favourite for underwater photography, Citrus Ridge is a T-shaped dive located near the Gam Islands. Celebrated as one of the most colourful reef systems in the region, it’s hard to shy away from experimenting with some wide-angle photography.
But the truth of the matter is, this site is a biodiversity hotspot for macro madness. You’ll become completely immersed in some underwater detective work, peering through every rock and crevice trying to find the odd bottom dweller of your dreams.
Due to the colourful reef system at this site, you’ll be able to hone in on these critters with a stunning coral backdrop. The site offers anything and everything from wobbegongs, sharks, turtles, schooling pelagics, and more macro life than I could possibly put into words.
In conclusion
There’s really no end to the photographic possibilities in Raja Ampat, as the diversity of marine life is unparalleled for eager and devoted ocean lovers.
You’ll become completely immersed in the true definition of island life: enjoying the perfectly manicured reefs, abundance of ocean creatures, and infinite archipelago structures that you’ll be able to enjoy in your surface intervals.
The hardest part of your trip will be deciding between macro or wide angle, as the opportunities for both are equally strong. But commit to your decision, and be prepared to miss opportunities on either end of the spectrum.
Just remember to respect the strong ocean currents, fragile underwater ecosystems, and enjoy your time in this last remaining paradise.
